Lucknow - the city of Nawabs

As you probably have realised, I am on a trip to discover India. So at some stage, it was inevitable that I would visit Lucknow. As it so happened, my friend Smita had to attend a cousin's wedding in Lucknow and she suggested that I should come over for the weekend so that we could explore the sights together. She is from Allahabad and has been to Lucknow before but she wanted to refresh her memory (and probably view it from my eyes - a fresh perspective).

Lucknow - the city of Nawabs. Culturally very rich, architecturally even richer and so full of intrigue. However, sad to say, the city is overcrowded, dirty and the heritage sites are falling apart due to negligence. It just shows that we don't value our heritage and culture. The economic diversity was full blown. The contrasts were there on every front but honestly I was excited to be there and I am happy to have experienced Lucknow.

History and Background:
Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh, extends along the banks of the River Gomti. The creator of Lucknow as it is today was Nawab Asaf ud Daula. The city became known as a centre for Urdu poetry and courtly diction, and reached its acme during the reign of Wajid Ali Shah who was a connoisseur of music and poetry. It was during his reign that the British appropriated Awadh. Today, the city is dotted with remnants of its rich historic past.


Lucknow is also known for its elaborate cuisine and 'Chikankaari' or exquisite shadow-work embroidery on fine muslin cloth.
(Source - www.up-tourism.com)
 
Bada Imambara:

This is a beautiful structure which consists of a huge central hall which has no supporting pillars within it. The supporting columns are on the sides and each has a ceiling which is decorated in a certain style - Persian, Roman and Chinese. It also consists of a labyrinth called Bhul Bhulayah which spans 3 storeys and has many staircases some of which lead to dead ends. It is an extensive maze that came about unintentionally to support the weight of the building.There are also many doorways and galleries from which the soldiers in the olden days could view the entry of friends or foe. There is a secret tunnel that leads one to Agra, Jaipur and Delhi but it is said to be sealed now. The complex also includes the Rumi Darwaza (Roman Gates), a Bouli or well.
 
I liked the intricate carvings on the walls and the trellised archways. There were dolphins all over the doorways and when I enquired, I was told that they were a symbol of goodluck.
 
We also visited the Chhota Imambara and the picture gallery. The gallery consisted of paintings of Nawabs and had a 3D effect. The eyes and feet of the various Nawabs kept following you all over the place! Truly fascinating.
 
We of course ended the day enjoying the famous Tunde ke kababs and buying beautiful Chikan suit materials.