Ramblings about life and travel: Istanbul

There are many adjectives to describe Istanbul and small would definitely not feature in the list! It is anything but! It is huge, populous, covers a huge surface area, lies on both sides of the Bosphorus, is old, is new, is traditional, is modern, is religious, is forward thinking, is orthodox, is European, is Asian, is Islamic, is Christian, is trendy and is definitely THE place to visit.

It is currently the hottest (and here I don't mean the weather) place to visit and features on all the travel sites, magazines and wish lists.

So I will do my best to share my experiences without sounding cliched.

The best place and the most convenient to stay would be the Sultanahmet area. Taksim Square is the next best (in my opinion). I preferred Sultanahmet because it is right at the heart of the main tourist area which allows you the most efficient use of time if you are constrained in that area.

I was fortunate that my hotel was right besides the Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque.

The Hagia Sophia is a former Orthodox Basilica which later became a mosque and is now a museum. From the date of its dedication in 360 until 1453, it served as the Greek Patriarchal cathedral of Constantinople. Interestingly, between 1204 and 1261 it was converted to a Roman Catholic cathedral and was a mosque from 29 May 1453 until 1931, when it was secularized.

It is famous for its massive dome which is considered to be the epitome of Byzantine architecture and is said to have changed the history of architecture. At the time of its construction it was the largest building in the world and remained so for nearly a thousand years till the Seville Cathedral was completed in 1520.

The church contained a large collection of holy relics and featured, among other things, a 49-foot (15 m) silver iconostasis. It was the seat of the Patriarch of Constantinople and the religious focal point of the Eastern Orthodox Church for nearly one thousand years. In 1453, Constantinople was conquered by the Ottoman Turks under Sultan Mehmed II, who subsequently ordered the building converted into a mosque. The bells, altar, iconostasis, and sacrificial vessels were removed and many of the mosaics were plastered over. Islamic features – such as the mihrab, minbar, and four minarets – were added while in the possession of the Ottomans.

Hagia Sophia was the principal mosque of Istanbul for 500 years and served as a model for many other Ottoman mosques including the Blue Mosque.

The Sultan Ahmed Mosque or the Blue Mosque as it is popularly known is opposite the Hagia Sophia. It is a functional mosque and is open to the public throughout the day. It is known as the blue mosque because of the blue mosaic tiles. It was built from 1609 to 1614 and incorporates the design of both the Ottoman mosque and the Byzantine church development. It is considered to be the last great mosque of the classical period.

The Basilica Cistern is right next door to the Hagia Sophia. It was built in the 6th century and is the largest of the many hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city. Before being converted into a cistern, a huge basilica stood in its place. It was built between the 3rd and 4th century in the early Roman age as a commercial, legal and artistic centre. Later a fire ravaged it and it was reconstructed with gardens and huge colonnades which is rumoured to have been built by 7000 slaves. It was then converted to a cistern which provided a water filtration system to the Grand Palace and other buildings.

The Topkapi Palace was the primary residence of the Sultans for 400 years till 1856. Today it is a museum and has important holy relics of the Muslim world, including the Prophet's cloak and sword. As you wander through the huge sprawling palace, its courtyards and the harem area, you are transported into a fantasy world. The beautiful view of the Marmara sea enhances the feeling of dreaminess.

Another beautiful palace is the Dolmabahce Palace which I passed by when I took the cruise on the Bosphorus. The design contains eclectic elements from the Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical styles, blended with traditional Ottoman architecture to create a new synthesis. The palace layout and décor reflect the increasing influence of European styles and standards on Ottoman culture and art during the Tanzimat period.

When in Istanbul, don't miss the cruise on the Bosphorus, also known as the Istanbul Strait, which forms part of the boundary between Europe and Asia. It - along with the Dardanelles - is one of two straits in Turkey. The world's narrowest strait used for international navigation, it connects the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara (which is connected by the Dardanelles to the Aegean Sea, and thereby to the Mediterranean Sea.) The strait is 31 km long and is 36 to 124 m deep. It is the best way to see and admire Istanbul from the water. Do not get lured by the various tour operators who will try to sell you a romantic cruise or the best cruise. Instead just head to the Eminonu pier and take the public ferry for a fraction of the price. It take an hour and a half to get to the furtherest point where you can explore a Roman fortress and have a meal with fresh catch.

The Grand Bazaar is a bigger and badder version of our Crawford Market. It has 30 streets with thousands of shops selling all kinds of stuff. Unless you know what you are looking for, it might be a waste of time (for someone from India) or you might get lost or you might just end up buying more than you require. They also have a Spice Bazaar for those who want to buy spices, nuts, etc.

The Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora or the Chora Church is considered to be one of the most beautiful surviving examples of a Byzantine church. In the 16th century, during the Ottoman era, the church was converted into a mosque and, finally, it became a museum in 1948. The interior of the building is covered with fine mosaics and frescoes.

Finally don't miss strolling down the Istiklal avenue which is in the Beyoglu district. It is the Grande Rue de Pera, an elegant pedestrian street three kilometers long, which houses exquisite boutiques, music stores, bookstores, art galleries, cinemas, theaters, libraries, cafés, pubs, night clubs with live music, historical patisseries, chocolateries and restaurants. The avenue, surrounded by late Ottoman era buildings (mostly from the 19th and early 20th centuries) that were designed with the Neo-Classical, Neo-Gothic, Beaux-Arts, Art Nouveau and First Turkish National Architecture (Birinci Millî Mimarî Akımı) styles; as well as a few Art Deco style buildings from the early years of the Turkish Republic, and a number of more recent examples of modern architecture; starts from the medieval Genoese neighbourhood around Galata Tower and ultimately leads up to Taksim Square.

The best way to get to Taksim square is to take the tram from Sultanahmet to Kabatas and then the metro connector up and then walk downhill to Galata whilst window shopping. Or you could take the tram to Karakoy and then the funicular Tunel at the second oldest subway station in the world. Either way, it is an experience.

And if you are Catholic and wanting to hear Mass on Sundays, there is a beautiful old church, St Anthony of Padua, on Istiklal Caddesi.

I was fortunate to witness a show by the whirling dervishes of the Mevlevi Order. They were truly poetry in motion and they had us mesmerised by their silent and continous whirling in praise of God. The Mevlevi believe in performing their dhikr (remembrance of God) in the form of a "dance and musical" ceremony known as the Sema, which involves the whirling, from which the order acquired its nickname. The Sema represents a mystical journey of man's spiritual ascent through mind and love to the "Perfect". Turning towards the truth, the follower grows through love, deserts his ego, finds the truth, and arrives at the "Perfect". He then returns from this spiritual journey as a man who has reached maturity and a greater perfection, able to love and to be of service to the whole of creation.

Another great experience is the food which is cheap, healthy and absolutely delicious. There are innumerable stalls selling juicy corn on the cobs, refreshing fruit platters including water melon and a local bread/bagel. They have a local speciality which is like called Turkish ravioli but is more like a rumali roti with different kinds of stuffings. There are plenty of tasty options for both vegetarian and nonvegetarians. You can finish your meal with the local ice cream Dondurma which is known for its texture and resistance to melting.

Finally you can round up your evening at Cemberlitas and soak your weary bones in the hammam.