Landskrona.........a quaint little citadel in South Sweden

Landskrona is more Danish than Swedish. It is a quaint little citadel in South Sweden and we went to visit only because my friend Saloni has her classes there and thought it might be an interesting site off the beaten track.

It is situtated on a natural harbour and was established to counter the Hanseatic League. It was burned by the Hanseatic League in 1428. Over the years it changed rulers several times from Danish to Swedish back to Danish. Now it is in Sweden but with a very Danish outlook.

                                                                Walking on the frozen lake

                                                               The Citadel with the moat

                                               This is a hospital. What a lovely place to recover!

                                                    Fortifications along the coastline

                                                                    Even the sea is frozen

                                        These surf breakers are ugly or pretty? Mixed reactions.....

Chasing the Northern Lights.......................in Swedish Lapland

The Northern Lights or Aurora Borealis are one of nature's wonders and if you are lucky, you get to see them.

Abisko, in Swedish Lappland is one of the best places to see them. So they say! I have been there twice and unfortunately they have been elusive. That too in a year of heightened activity which occurs once in every 11 years!

Nevertheless, I am still fascinated about the auroras and will continue to chase them till I am LUCKY enough to see them.

Some interesting facts:

• The bright dancing lights of the aurora are actually collisions between electrically charged particles from the sun that enter the earth's atmosphere.
• The lights are seen above the magnetic poles of the northern and southern hemispheres.
• They are known as 'Aurora borealis' in the north and 'Aurora australis' in the south..
• Auroral displays appear in many colours although pale green and pink are the most common. Shades of red, yellow, green, blue, and violet have been reported.
• The lights appear in many forms from patches or scattered clouds of light to streamers, arcs, rippling curtains or shooting rays that light up the sky with an eerie glow.
• The Maori of New Zealand shared a belief with many northern people of Europe and North America that the lights were reflections from torches or campfires.
• The Menominee Indians of Wisconsin believed that the lights indicated the location of manabai'wok (giants) who were the spirits of great hunters and fishermen.
• The Inuit of Alaska believed that the lights were the spirits of the animals they hunted: the seals, salmon, deer and beluga whales.
• Other aboriginal peoples believed that the lights were the spirits of their people.
• The best places to watch the lights (in North America) are in the northwestern parts of Canada, particularly the Yukon, Nunavut, Northwest Territories and Alaska. Auroral displays can also be seen over the southern tip of Greenland and Iceland, the northern coast of Norway and over the coastal waters north of Siberia.
• Southern auroras are not often seen as they are concentrated in a ring around Antarctica and the southern Indian Ocean.

 Getting to Abisko:     

• Fly to Kiruna which is the nearest airport.
• Take the train or the bus to Abisko.
• The town Abisko has one train station whilst the Abisko National Park has another.
• You could also arrange for a private taxi transfer but these are expensive unless you are travelling in a group.

I would recommend that you stay at the Abisko Touristation at the National Park as it is extremely beautiful. It is also in the midst of nature which is spectacular no matter if you visit during summer or winter. You also have access to the Abisko sky station which is one of the highest chairlifts in the Arctic. It can get really cold (here we are talking of -30C) so they give you boots, a warm jumpsuit and gloves.

Once you are up there, you can choose to either stay outside, though I guarantee you that you will not last long in the freezing cold or you could look outside the glass windows of the cozy warm café. They do have an explanation of the aurora and solar activity. We were lucky to have a very intelligent and witty guide.

Going up and down the chairlift can be a frightening experience if you have watched the movie Frozen but it can also be a very personal experience if you can absorb the silence and the greatness of the universe. You have to experience it yourself but imagine it is still, completely pitch dark (we are after all in one of the remotest places on earth) and there is no sound around you (we are in the midst of a national park). You are now being transported by chair ski lifts up the mountain and there is nothing else below you, around you. Above you is the clear sky full of bright stars and if you are lucky, very lucky, you will see the aurora.

If the Aurora does not motivate you to make a trip there, nothing else will.

The annual Sami winter market at Jokkmokk

The Samis are the indigenous people of Lappland which spans the northern parts of Norway, Sweden and Finland. Every year they have 2 annual markets which act as a conference for this wandering nomadic people. We were lucky to be in the area to witness the winter market at Jokkmokk.

The day we decided to visit was a super cold day for us with temperatures at -6 degrees celsius but for the Samis it was a warm day.

Nevertheless the entire place looked like it was a picture postcard and we felt we were in it. That's how surreal it was.

It reminded me of the Christmas markets but on a larger scale. There were over 500 stalls selling different wares - warm clothing made from alpaca wool, fleece, reindeer skin to various cheeses and other sweets.

It was also a cultural event to showcase Sami traditions. There were various parallel programs taking place at several locations and one had to be super organised if one wanted to get the most out of them. Unfortunately walking through the snow is not the most easy thing to do and we had to make do with whatever we managed to see.

                         There was a political protest taking place in the middle of the market.

                                                         Not sure what was brewing on the fire

                                                                      There was an Elvis too!

                                                  This was the venue of the winter games!

But the highlight was the Sami reindeer parade. It was a Sami family with their reindeer all decked up in traditional gear. I somehow was expecting a huge parade and was a bit disappointed with the actual one.

                                                            This Sami woman has visited Goa

                                                       The new church....................

                                                                  and the Old Church

I love their church decorations

                                                       Dog sledding on the frozen lake


Now am curious to see what their summer annual market looks like and hopefully will be able to make it there.

Swedish Glogg

Last year whilst in Sweden we were treated to glogg and gingerbread. It is a Christmas tradition with the Swedes where they invite close friends and family over to meet over mulled red wine.

Mulled wine is a beverage usually made with red wine along with various spices and raisins. It is served hot or warm and may be alcoholic or non-alcoholic. It is a traditional drink during winter, especially around Christmas and Halloween. Port and claret are traditional choices for mulled wine. (Wikipedia)

I have had mulled wine – Gluhwein - before in Germany at the Christmas markets. However the difference with the Swedish one is that you add blanched almonds and raisins into it making it a very delicious drink. Matteus, who had invited us over, explained the tradition and was very patient when his little kids started munching on the almonds and raisins.

This year, the Swedish Consul General has invited me to her pre Christmas celebration and I am looking forward to raising a toast with my glass of delicious mulled wine.

Recipe for Swedish Glogg is http://www.food.com/recipe/glogg-swedish-mulled-red-wine-my-swedish-mother-in-laws-199791

Snowstorms, Snow Angels, Snow Faces and beautiful Vasa

We had a free day during the SIMP module and we had made several plans on how we were going to spend the day. Unfortunately that was not going to happen as on the day, Stockholm was hit by the biggest snow storm in a long while. And just how Mumbai comes to a grinding halt when there is an exceptionally huge downpour during the monsoons, similar was the case in Stockholm.

 

 

 

So we improvised. We were probably the happiest people in Sweden. They definitely do not appreciate a snowstorm but for us it was a novelty. We could not sit still in the hotel. We had to venture out. So about 15 of us decided to visit Vasa the museum.

We had a great time admiring the ship and learning about her history. She was the original Titanic. Not supposed to sink but sink she did after being afloat for only 30 minutes! Nevertheless we admired her beauty and the workmanship. And then we reluctantly decided to venture out from the warmth of the museum into the biting cold of the snow. We asked reception to call for cabs as the buses had stopped running, but of course the earliest cab was 5 hours away.

 

Since Vasa was located on a different island (though adjoining to our hotel's island) it was still a very long walk in the snowstorm. Not advisable said reception. So we asked if there was an alternative. And lo and behold yes, there was one! The ferry. So we quickly collected instructions on how to get to the dock and hoping to get the next one (before they stopped plying) we set off through knee high snow.

It was picturesque! White snow all over, just a narrow path. The minute you wandered off the path, you sunk into the snow as it had piled up quite high. Of course for us Indians it was a treat so instead of rushing to the ferry dock, we had to play in the snow, make snow balls and take tons of pictures. All of us enjoying the moment. Any Swede looking at us would have thought that we were crazy to be out on that afternoon.

 

Finally we got to the ferry and reached our hotel in one piece. I dread to think what we would have done if that was the last ferry of the day and if we had missed it!

On reaching the hotel we could not sit still either. So we decided to visit the Christmas markets and meet my friend AnnSofie later for a drink. The Christmas markets turned out to be a tad boring so we ended up in the warm restaurant and AnnSofie joined us there. She was so sweet, she had loaned us a whole lot of winter gear for our trip to the Artic and had first dropped it off at the hotel before meeting us. Thoughtful of her 'cos we would never have been able to lug the bag back to the hotel. Don't forget that cabs were not available and buses were not plying!

 

AnnSofie then walked us to the hotel and we happened to pass by some kids playing in the snow. They were lying down and flapping their arms. AnnSofie asked us if we knew what they were doing and when we said no she said that they were making snow angels. And she proceeded to lie down on an expanse of untouched snow and she spread her arms and then flapped them up and down, making a snow angel. Of course we had to try them! It was so much fun and for a moment we felt we were 8 years old again!

As we walked to the hotel we passed benches covered in snow, cycles covered in snow and walls covered in snow. The Swedes who were rushing home were totally amused at our eagerness to take pictures of everything covered in white powder. AnnSofie then taught us to make snow faces and that was super fun too. You stick your face into the snow and hold still for a minute. It feels prickly and then numb with the cold. When you lift your face you find the impression left behind quite like a Venetian mask! And then your face slowly gets warm again making u want to repeat the process! What fun we had that day!

 

It truly was a memorable day and I cannot wait to make more snow angels and snow faces.

Christmas Markets in Europe

There are Christmas Markets and there are Christmas Markets.

A few years ago I was fortunate enough to visit Cologne in December, thereby experiencing the Christmas markets. My friend Chi Mee took me to at least 9 of them in and around Cologne-Bonn. Each of them had a different theme ranging from medieval ones to winter wonderland ones to children specials. I enjoyed all the food and drink, the people watching and the trinket window shopping.

 

Last year we were in Stockholm for the last module of SIMP and I was excited to experience the Swedish Christmas Markets. They had 2 of them - one in the city centre and the other near the palace. Both were tiny with few stalls and wares on display. Also they shut shop early leaving me very disappointed. Probably it may have been because the day I visited was also the day of the biggest snowstorm in a long while in Stockholm.

Anyway, I have fond memories of the German Christmas markets and I shall hope and pray that I am able to witness some more of them in the years to come.

 

Hesselby Slott - our home away from home

The first week of our SIMP module was held at Hesselby Slott which is a quaint noble house in the suburbs of Stockholm. We were under the impression that we were going to be staying at a castle...........Nevertheless, the quaintness of the place and its beauty charmed us.

Hesselby Castle was built in the mid 1600s and was bought over by the city of Stockholm in 1931. Today it is owned by Tomas Ledin, a Swedish singer and is used for musical events including a music festival. The rooms at the main house are quite comfortable for a conference or a training program with a welcoming library and lovely cosy seating areas. The walls of the common areas are covered with memorabilia of Tomas Ledin, making it some kind of shrine to himself.

The estate has a unique baroque garden which was laid out at the beginning of the 1700s. Every morning we walked or jogged through the park to the lake nearby. The calming environment was perfect for us to bond in and absorb all the gyaan on sustainability. :)

On our last evening, we walked to the lake and came across hundreds of birds.

The walls are covered with tributes to the world's music greats.

In a way, a kind of Nobel prize for music.

 

Stockholm - a grand city

Stockholm is one of the finest capitals of Europe. Very statuesque and royal. And on a sunny day, it is really glorious to see the beautiful buildings surrounded by water bathed in the glow of the sun.

Stockholm is also one of those cities which conjures up a lot of images in your mind before you visit. I was certainly not disappointed on the 2 occasions I was lucky to visit.

There is much to see and do in Stockholm, so plan your visit carefully. It is located on 14 islands but unlike Bombay, they did not reclaim land. Instead they chose to connect the islands with bridges. The city originally rose to prominence as a result of the Baltic trade of the Hanseatic League. Stockholm developed strong economic and cultural linkages with Lübeck, Hamburg, Gdańsk, Visby, Reval, and Riga.

Gamla Stan is the old town which dates back to the 13th century and is located on the central island. It is home to the Palace where the King has his offices, the Nobel Museum, the Stockholm Cathedral and the Riddarholm church.

The City Hall is a very impressive building and it is where the dinner for the Nobel Laureates is held.

The Vasa museum and Skansen open air museums are also must sees. Am going to check them out in December when I visit.

Walking on the rooftops is another unique activity that I did not have the chance to do and doubt very much if I can do it in winter.

However am pleased just to walk around this beautiful city and soak in the vibes or take a cruise in the gorgeous archipelago. I look forward to my next visit in December.

The view from the City Hall

The City Hall

Hanseatic architecture

The Nobel Museum

The Dala Horse (Dalecarlian horse) is a symbol of Sweden

The Royal Palace

You must cruise in the archipelago and appreciate Stockholm from the water